Art of making shoes



May 25,. 1937. A. cocozELLA ART OF MAKING SHOES Fiied Nov. 28.1933

Patented May 25, 1937 2,081,226 ART or MAKING snolis Anthony Cocozella,Lynn, Mass. v

` Application November 2B, 1933, Serial No.h700,071

16 Claims.

The present invention relates to the art of making shoes.

Experience has demonstrated that the use in the shoe industry ofadhesives to secure permas nently the lasted upper to the insole, andthe operation. Preferably, however, the opening 9 5 voutsole to thelasted shoe, produces a. very stiff is formed in the forepart of theinsole in the shoe, much less flexible than the McKay shoe. mannerdisclosed in my application Serial N0- The realization of this hasproved disappointing 665,663, filed April 12,' 1933. l p to themanufacturers that have committed them- The overdrawn margin of theupper may be lo selves definitely to the use of adhesives,particusecured to the lasting flange of the insole by larly those thatmake shoes for women, who any of the Well known mediums, such as tacks,generally demand flexible shoes. In my applicathread or staples.Preferably, the overdrawn tion, Serial No. 665,663, led April l2, i933,I margin of the upper is secured to the lasting have discloseda shoewhich is flexible notwithange of the insole by an adhesive. Thisadstanding the fact that in its manufacture adhesive may be of the typewhich permanently 15` hesives maybe used to secure permanently thesecures the overdrawn upper to the lasting ilange lasted upperv to theinsole and the outsole to the of the in`s0le.- Preferably, the adhesiveis treated lasted shoe. to retain its adhesive property temporarily.

The principal object of the present invention- That is, the adhesive isnot designed to unite is to improve the flexibility of the type of shoethe components 0f the lasted ShOe Permanentlw 20 disclosed in myapplication hereinbefore identi- I'he adhesive is sufficient merely t0'Secure the ed. margin pf the upper in its desirable lasted posi- To theaccomplishment of this objectland Such tion to the insole during thesubsequent shoe others as may appearhereinaften the-.various makingoperations. 1 features of the present invention. reside in cer- Afterthe upper and insole ha-Ve been b10ught"25 tain shoe constructions andcertain processes 0f into the condition illustrated in Flg.`2;-tlievertimanufacture hereinafter described andl then cal Wallof the opening9 and the adjacent marpointed outlbroadly and in detail in theappendgin'. 0f the Oveldlawn upper are provided With ed claims,possessing advantages readily apparadhesives. Over the opening 9 isplaced a cover ent to` those skilled in the art. I0 (Fig. 3) which isdied out of some thin ma- 30 The various features of the presentinvention teral Such as a Split 01 leather 0f the type used will beunderstood readily from an inspection of for Impers- The @over l0 isdied out to a size the accompanying drawing, illustrating the bestlarger than the Opening 9 S0" that after it has form of the inventionat, present, devised' in y been positioned thereover in Contact withsubwhich, stantially the entire surface of the overdrawn 35 Figure v1 isa view Iin elevation of a woma i upper Surrounding the Opening 9 thecover mary pump; be..tucked down into engagement v'with the ce- Fig. 2`is a View in bottom plan of the laste mented vertical wall of theopening and secured shoe; f Fig. 3 is an enlarged View in sectionalelevation on the line 3--3, Fig. 1;

Fig. 4 is a view in plan' of-the s'ponge-rubbe pad. and

' Fig. 5 is a view in sectional elevation'onl'the line 5 5, Fig. 4. x

Referring to Fig. 2 after the lasting operation, the lasted shoecomprises an upper 6, (which term is used .herein to inc1ude-the liningmaterials), which is secured in overdrawn position to the lasting flangeof an insole 1 mounted on the bottom of a last 8. The lforepart of theinsole is provided with an opening 9 through which the bottom of thelast 8 may be observed. Preferably the margin of the upper around theforepartof the lasted shoe is trimmed to the 4 edge of the aperture 9. yY,

The opening 9 may be formed in the forepailt of the insole either beforeor after the lasting thereto. During this tucking operation a portion ofone face Il of the cover I0 is spread 4 smoothly over the bottom of thelast 8 thus in'- suring the positioning of the face I I of the covervsubstantially flush with that face of the insole which is exposed toView in the finished shoe or to which in some shoes there is securedalining (not shown) which engages the sole por.- tlon of the sock of thewearer. The adhesive applied to the vertical Wall of the opening 9 isdesigned to secure the cover I0 permanently thereto. The adhesiveapplied to the margin of the overdrawn upper adjacent the opening 9 is.designed to secure the cover Ill temporarily thereto. A

When the cover lil is secured in position as shown in 3 it forms a cup(Fig. 3) in which is 55 v outsole permanently,

forated, is died out from a sheet to a size, somewhat smaller than theopening 9, so that it does not completely illl the cup formed by thecover tions of use under the treading pressure of the I 0. One face ofthe sponge-rubber pad I2 may be secured to the face I3 of the cover I0opposite its face II.

Then the outsole I4 is placed in position over the bottom of the lastedshoe and secured thereto by an adhesive, care being taken to prevent theoutsole from being coated with adhesive in that portion adjacent the/padI2; Preferably, the adhesive employed to secure the outsole to thelasted shoe is suliicient to hold the outsole on the lasted shoe duringthe subsequent shoe mak-r ing operations, lbut is not sufficient to actas a permanent fastening means for the outsole during wear. l

The lasted shoe having the outsole temporarily secured `thereto is thensubjected to a stitching operation in which stitches I5, preferably lockstitches, are inserted through the lasting flange of the insole 1, theoverdrawn margin of the upper B, the marginal portiomof the cover I0,and the outsole` I3, preferably from a point -back of the heel breastline on one side of the shoe to the corresponding point on the otherside of the shoe.

As shown in Fig. 3 the sponge-rubber pad I 2 depends from the cover. Theperipheral' edge of the pad I2 is not secured to the vertical side 0fthe cupformed by the cover I0. As 'the cover I0 is secured to the insole'I only along the vertical wall of the opening 9 the face II of thecover I0 bulges upwardly and thus maintains thepad normally in contactwith the outsole only along the peripheral corner adjacent the bottomface of the pad and its peripheral edge. The pad I2 is secured neitherto the insole nor to the outsole. The pad is thus free to accommodateitself independently of the' insole and outsole to the varyingcondiwearers foot transmitted to the pad through the cover. I'hisfeature, combined with the lock stitches which alone unite the upper,insole and ible shoe.

What is claimed as new. is:

' 1. A shoe characterized by an insole providedwith an opening initsforepart, an4 outsole, a` cover for thel'opening forming a cupv havingitsv edge interposed between fthe insole-andthe, outfsole,.andafspongerubber pad depending from, the cover into the cup, said padbeing normally l spacedfrom the` verticalside vof the cup.

2. A shoe characterized by an insole provided with an openingin.its..forepart, anoutsole, acoverifor the openlngforming acup-havingits edge interposed between `the insole and the outsole, and asponge-rubber pad depending from'y the cover into the cup unsecured toand-normally spaced from thevertical side thereof. A

3. A shoe characterized by an' insole provided with an opening in itsforepart, an outsole, a cover 'for the opening forming a cup having itsedge interposed between the insole and the out-l sole, and asponge-rubber pad depending from the cover into the cup unsecured to theoutsole and normally spaced from the vertical side of the cup.

, 4. A shoe characterized by an insole provided with an opening in itsforepart, an outsole,'a cover for the opening forming'a cup having itsproduces an extremely exv edge interposed between 'the insole and theoutsole, and a sponge-rubber pad depending from the ycover into the cupunsecured either to the vertical side thereof or to the outsole, saidpad also being normally spaced from the vertical side of the cup.

5. A shoe characterized by an insole provided with an opening in itsforepart, an outsole, an upper having its marginal' portion interposedbetween the insole and the outsole, a cover for the opening forming acup having its edge interposed between the marginal portion of the upperand the outsole, a lling for the cup movable relatively to the verticalside thereof, and stitches s inserted through the insole, the marginalportions of the upper and the cover, and the outsole. 6. A shoecharacterized by an insole provided with an opening in its forepart, anoutsole, an

upper having-its marginal portion interposed be- 'tween the insole andthe outsole, a cover for the opening forming a cup having its edgeinterposed between the marginal portion of the upper and the outsole,and filling for the cup normally spaced from and movable relatively'tothe vertical side thereof and unsecured to the outsole.

7. A shoe characterized by an insole provided with an 'opening in itsforepart, anoutsole, an upper having its marginal portion interposedbetween the insole and the outsole, a cover for the opening forming acup having its edge interposed between the marginal portion of the upperand theoutsole, and a sponge-rubber pad depending from the coverintc thecup spaced from the vertical side thereof for movement relativelythereto.

8. A shoe characterized byJan insole provided with an opening in vitsforepart, an outsole, an upper having its marginal portion interposedbetween the insole and the outsole, a cover for the opening forming acup having its edge interposed between the marginal portion of theupper` and the outsole, and a sponge-rubber pad having one face securedto that face of the cover unexvposed .to view in thefmished 'shoedepending with an opening inv its forepart, an ,0utsole, fan

normally spaced from the j upper having its 'marginalportion interposedIbed tweenthe insole and the, outsole, a 1cover farther. .opening formingya cup having its edge'linterposed between the marginalportion oftheupper and theouts'olaand 'a sponge-rubber pad having one face'securedtol that face'ofothe cve'r'i'mex-v posed to view inthe nis'h'ed shoedependingl loosely ,into the cupl normallymspacedfrom the vertical `sidethereof 'and movable relativelyto thel outsole.

10'. A shoe characterized an insole provided with an openingin' itsforepart,an outsole, anV

upper/having its marginal. portioninterposedgbef. tween the insole andthe outsole, a cover ,for the g opening forming a cup -having its edgeinter-1.1;`

posed between the marginal portion of the upperV and the outsole," and asponge-rubber pad having ,l one facevsecured to that face of thecoverunexf posed to view in the finished shoe depending l loosely intothe ,cup normally spaced fromthe vertical side thereof and movablerelatively to both the insole and the outsole.

11. That improvement inv the art of makingv shoes which consists inassembling an insole with a last and an upper, lasting the upper andsecurv ing it to the insole, removing a section bodily 'a last and anupper, lasting the upper and securing it to the insole, removing asection bodily from the forepart of the insole within the margin of thelasted upper, covering the aperture in the insole, tucking thecover'into engagement with the Wall of the aperture, filling the cupformed by the tucked cover, and thereafter attaching an outsole to thelasted shoe.

13. A shoe characterized by an lupper` and an insole having an aperturein its forepart within the margin of the upper securedvto the bottom noftheinsole, said aperture being covered by a piece of iiex-iblematerial 'engaged with and secured both tothe said margin of the upperand to the entire wall ofthe aperture, a piece of yieldable materialsmaller-than the aperture having one face engaged with the unexposedface of the exible material, and an outsole engaged both with theopposite face of the piece of yieldable material and with the margin ofthe flexible material secured to the said margin of the upper.

14. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists inassembling an insole with a last and an upper, lasting the upper andbodily from the forepart of the insole leaving an internal aperturetherein, trimming the margin of the upper overdrawn upon the forepart ofthe insole to the edge of .the aperture, rendering the wall of theaperture adhesive, securing a cover comprising a piece of flexiblematerial to the wall of the aperture by means that performs its securingfunction by engagement both with the cover and the entire face of thewall, placing a lling Within the cover, and thereafter attaching 'anoutsole to the lasted shoe.

15. A shoe characterized by an insole provided With an aperture having avertical wall in its forepart, a cover for the aperture secured to thevertical Wall thereof by means that performs its securing function byengagement both with the cover and the entire face of the vertical Wall,and a cushion received within the cover.

16. A shoe characterized by an insole provided with an aperture in itsforepart, a cover for the aperture having a sock lining engaging facesecured to the wall of the aperture by means that performs its securingfunction by engagement both with said face of the cover and the entirewall of the aperture, and a'cushion received within the cover inengagement with the face thereof opposite its sock lining engaging face.

ANTHONY COCOZELLA.

'securing it to the insole, removing a section

